Wild about The Catlins
The pristine and wave-bashed wilderness of the Catlins Coast, in the deep South, is the perfect setting to embrace the seasonal elements of the Southern Ocean and get the legs pumping on a photogenic getaway.
Skirting the South Otago Coast, the Catlins district, wedged between Invercargill and Balclutha, is a powder-keg of rugged natural splendour. (Just follow the Southern Scenic signposts from Balclutha.)
Deriving its place name from Edward Cattlin, a ship’s captain who made land claim in 1840, somewhere along the way, he lost a “t” from his surname. Nugget Point is the first major sightseeing attraction on the Catlins route, which begins south of Balclutha.
Gnarly and windswept Nugget Point, which bears an uncanny resemblance to a chunk of China’s Great Wall, delivers a cracking coastal panorama. The well-formed walkway is a 30 minute amble, flanking the ridgeline of Nugget Point delivering panoramic views of the Otago Peninsula and the Catlins coast.
The walkway climaxes at the 158 year old lighthouse, pinned to the jagged summit, and towering over New Zealand’s most dynamic marine mammal zone. Adjacent to Nugget Point, blue and yellow-eyed penguins can be viewed late in the day, at Roaring Bay.
Elephant seals, fur seals and Hooker’s sea lions also call Nugget Point home, languidly lazing on the wave-battered rocks at the base of the point, doing convincing impressions of stranded driftwood or an old boys’ club. Jacks Beach is a beautiful South Otago beach which is also home to a delightful cluster of eccentric Kiwi cribs. From the beach, an easy 20 minute walk across private farmland takes you to the dramatic Jacks Blowhole.
Over 200 metres from the beach, the hole is 55 metres deep and the boom of the blowhole at high tide is thunderously impressive. In an area awash with waterfalls, Purakanui Falls, within a beautiful bush setting, would be my pick of the bunch. None of the Catlins’ falls are particularly high – so don’t expect to stumble upon the Niagara! But the dense and lush forest settings accentuate the splendour of cascading water.
I visited the falls on a particularly wet day, which turbo charges visual spectacle. 10km east of Maclennan, the walkway to the Purakanui Falls starts off Waikoata Valley Road. The track is a gentle 20 minute stroll, winding through a mix of silver beech and podocarp forest, climaxing with a sweeping view of the falls.
Descend down the stream level viewing platform which provides a far more intimate spectacle of the three tiers that combine to make these falls so divine. My second favourite falls spectacle in the Catlins is McLean Falls. Cathedral Caves are a collection of spectacular sea caves, guaranteed to thrill.
The main cave reaches a height of over 30 metres and some of the caves go deep into the cliff, so a torch is recommended. The caves are only accessible at low tide, so try and time your visit accordingly. Tide times are helpfully posted on the entrance gate, and the gate is normally closed if the tide isn’t conducive to visitors.
Curio Bay is a most unusual coastal setting, over 150 million years old, and distinctive for the fossilised tree stumps and trunks that are clearly identifiable on the bay’s rocky shelf. Once again, low tide is the best time to experience the novelty of this preserved, ancient forest.
Curio Bay is also home to a colony of yellow-eyed penguins who will appear out of the surf late in the day. The Store at Curio bay does a great line of local crafts and souvenirs. The cute Catlins village of Owaka is considered the prime hotbed for arts and craftspeople. The local galleries are well worth a nosey.
The Catlins are best navigated from Dunedin, following the Southern Scenic route from Balclutha, or heading east from Invercargill. It is possible to take in all of the major sights within one day, but if you wish to explore the area at a more leisurely pace, an overnight stop in Owaka is recommended. Or if you want a coastal view, Kaka Point is great, too.
I booked my accommodation through Booking.com who boast 30 diverse properties across The Catlins, plus an excellent filter highlighting where your four-legged travelling companions are welcome. Booking.com offers a diverse array of options from hotels and apartments to holiday homes and campsites.
Whether you’re on the website or via the app, Booking.com is super easy to use with incredible deals and total flexibility, whether you need to amend or cancel your bookings. www.booking.com
By Mike Yardley. (October 16, 2018)